Rolling Work Tables

Finding a table that works well for your space can be very difficult to do, but now you can make a great rolling work table with this project guide.

Photo of Rolling Carts in use.


This is a very easy project that requires only simple tools. You can do most of the project yourself with one person and a hammer.

Difficulty Level: Moderate level of difficulty


Number of Makers Needed: Screen Shot 2015-12-15 at 3.31.30 PM

One person is sufficient for all steps but you may want some help when carrying or holding heavy parts.

Picture of tools


 Cost per rolling table

  • About $258 for materials


These rolling work tables are created mainly with particle board and 2 x 4’s.

2 x 4

(5.5) 8’ 2×4’s* (see cut list)

Only 5.5 8′ lengths are needed per table – the other half can be used to make the next table. Pro Tip: When purchasing from hardware stores we recommend spending an extra dollar or two per beam for “top choice” lumber. It will be much better quality and less likely to be bowed and twisted. Also note: 2x4s actually measure only 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″

Particle Boards

48”x96”premium particle board (see cut list)

This size sheet will provide enough material to make six tables! Use the cut list to see dimensions needed for one table.





(1) 74×1 1/8” Countertop

We chose this countertop from IKEA because it was the most economical and matched the wood we used.

*2×4’s actually measure 3 1/2 x 1 1/2

How to Make a Rolling Work Table

Our construction plans are are easy to follow! With our guide you will have a rolling work table up in your space by the end of the day.

Use the attached Material Cut List to prepare all materials for the build.

For clarity, these are how the lengths of 2×4 will be referred to throughout the instructions:
  • 24” lengths = legs (x4)
  • 19” lengths = leg braces (x4)
  • 63” lengths = cross beams (x2)
  • 32” lengths = triangular braces (x2)
  • 8” lengths = short baseboard pieces (x2)
  • 60” lengths = long baseboard pieces (x2)

Step 1

Step 1: Make your mark

Mark one end of each leg at 3/4” from the top and 3/4” from each side.

Step 2

Step 2: Check your markings

Each of the legs should have two markings on one end. This will be the “bottom” of each leg.

Step 3

Step 3: Make a mark on the other side of the leg

On the opposite end of each leg, measure and mark at 1 1/2” and 2 3/4”.

Step 4

Step 4: Cross marks

Cross those marks at 3/4” in from the side edge. This will be the “top” of each leg.

Step 5

Step 5: Clamp the leg down

Clamp a leg brace flat on a table, close to the edge, but leaving enough room to place the leg against it vertically, with the “bottom” facing down.

Step 6

Step 6: Select a drill bit

Select a drill bit the width of the shaft of the deck screws.

Step 7

Step 7: Drill in a pilot hole

Pilot a hole into the mark on each corner.

Step 8

Step 8: Drive in a screw

Drive a deck screw into each hole.

Step 9

Step 9: Unclamp and drill

Unclamp and turn the “L” shape. Pilot and drill two holes through the bottom of a second leg to attach it to the other side.

Step 10

Step 10: Repeat steps 7-9

Repeat Steps 7-9 with a second leg brace and remaining two legs to create two “U” shapes.

Step 11

Step 11: Align and clamp

Turn the “U” shape upside down so the tops of each leg are facing down. Clamp a leg brace vertically between the table legs as shown (instead of flat against the table as before). The marks on the top of each leg should line up with the brace.

Step 12

Step 12: Drill in pilot holes

Pilot holes through each of the marks on the top of the leg.

Step 13

Step 13: Drive in deck screws

Drive deck screws into each of the pilot holes.

Step 14

Step 14: Drill in side holes

Unclamp and turn the leg frame. Pilot and drill two holes through the marks on the other leg to secure the brace.

Step 15

Step 15: Repeat steps 11-14

Repeat Steps 11-14 to secure the last brace to complete two leg frames.

Step 16

Step 16: Position and clamp

Set a leg frame on the table with the top side down, and place a cross beam in the corner. Clamp the cross beam to the table as shown.

Step 17

Step 17: Use another clamp to hold securely

Use a second clamp to secure the cross beam to the leg frame.

Step 18

Step 18: Make a mark

On the leg frame, mark the brace piece 1” in from top and bottom and 3/4” the side edge.

Step 19

Step 19: Drill in pilot holes

Drill pilot holes into each of the marks.

Step 20

Step 20: Drive deck screws into holes

Drive deck screws into each of the pilot holes.

Step 21

Step 21: Repeat steps 16-20

Release both clamps and repeat Steps 16-20 to secure the second leg frame to the other side of the cross beam. This cross beam will be the “back” of the whole table frame.

Step 22

Step 22: Position and clamp

Release the clamps and position the second cross beam between the leg frames and flat against the table. Clamp in place as shown.

Step 23

Step 23: Measure and mark

On the brace of each leg frame, measure and mark at 1” and 2 1/2”, and 3/4” up from the bottom edge.

Step 24

Step 24: Drill and drive

Drill pilot holes and drive deck screws into each of the marks. Repeat on the other end of the cross beam to secure the other leg frame.

Step 25

Step 25: Move table frame onto floor

Move the whole table frame to the floor and set the ikea countertop face-down. (The cardboard it comes wrapped in makes a good work surface to protect both the countertop and your floor.)

Step 26

Step 26: Measure countertop

Measure and mark 4” in from each side of the countertop and 1 3/4” in from the top and bottom edges.

Step 27

Step 27: Place table frame on top

Place the table frame on top of the countertop as shown, centering it between the four corner marks.

Step 28

Step 28: Clamp a scrap piece of wood

Clamp a scrap piece to the edge of a table with a few inches hanging over.

Step 29

Step 29: Drill in pilot hole on scrap piece of wood

Using a drill bit that matches the width of the shank of a wood screw, drill a pilot hole all the way through one end of the scrap piece.

Step 30

Step 30: Repeat on other side

Loosen the clamp and turn the piece to drill a pilot hole on the other end.

Step 31

Step 31: Flip to side and repeat

Release the clamp and turn the scrap piece over so the next side is facing up and drill a pilot hole all the way through the center. (Repeat Steps 28-31 to pre-drill two additional scrap pieces.)

Step 32

Step 32: Measure inside the table frame

On the underside of the countertop, measure and mark 31 1/2” along the inside BACK of the table frame.

Step 33

Step 33: Clamp scrap piece over table mark

Position a scrap piece over the center mark with the single center hole facing up, and clamp in place. Drive two wood screws through the side pilot holes and into the cross beam.

Step 34

Step 34: Carefully pilot hole into countertop

Remove the clamp and drive one wood screw down through the top pilot hole into the countertop.

Step 35

Step 35: Repeat with other scrap pieces

Center the other scrap pieces inside each side of the leg assembly and repeat Steps 33-34 to secure the countertop to the frame.

Step 36

Step 36: Position and clamp

Position the two triangular braces as shown on the outside back of the table frame. Be sure the mitered bottom edges of the braces are flat against the countertop and clamp in place.

Step 37

Step 37: Measure and mark

Measure and mark on the triangular brace 2” from the surface of the countertop.

Step 38

Step 38: Measure and mark

Measure and make a cross-mark at 1 1/2” from each side of the triangular brace.

Step 39

Step 39: Drill in pilot hole

Using the deck screw bit, drill pilot holes through the marks.

Step 40

Step 40: Drive in screws

Drive deck screws into each of the pilot holes.

Step 41

Step 41: Repeat with other brace

Repeat Steps 37-40 to attach the other triangular brace to the frame.

Step 42

Step 42: Measure and mark

On the top of each triangular brace, where it touches the leg frame, measure and mark 1 1/2” from the mitered edge 3/4” in from the side.

Step 43

Step 43: Carefully drill in pilot holes

Start with the drill bit perpendicular to the face of the beam. As soon as the tip of the bit bites into the wood, tilt the drill to continue forming the hole parallel to the floor. (Drill slowly and carefully, as this angled pressure can cause the drill bit to break.)

Step 44

Step 44: Drive in screw

Drive a deck screw into the pilot hole.

Step 45

Step 45: Position caster

Position a wheel on the bottom of each leg frame as shown, lining up the plate with the outside edge of each leg, and with the outside holes centered on the bottom face of the leg.

Step 46

Step 46: Mark casters

Mark an X in each hole.

Step 47

Step 47: Select drill bit for lag screw

Select a drill bit the width of the shaft the lag screws. Flag the bit with a piece of masking tape at the same height as the length of the screw. (This will prevent drilling too far through the leg frames).

Step 48

Step 48: Remove casters and drill in pilot holes

Remove the wheel and drill pilot holes through each mark.

Step 49

Step 49: Mark and drill four holes into the leg frames

Mark and drill four holes in each corner of the leg frames.

Step 50

Step 50: Place caster back on frame and socket

Place the wheel back in position and use the socket wrench to tighten four lag screws into the holes.

Step 51

Step 51: Attach wheels to all four legs

Attach wheels onto all four corners.

Note on the following steps: Gloves should be worn when handling particle board because the edges are rough and can splinter when moved.

Step 52

Step 52: Arrange pieces on floor

Arrange the particle board on the floor with the short baseboard pieces aligned with each end.

Step 53

Step 53: Double check alignment

Make sure the outside edges of the baseboard are flush with the particle board on all sides.

Step 54

Step 54: Place baseboard pieces together

Carefully place the long baseboard pieces between the short baseboard pieces, making sure their edges are also flush with the particle board.

Step 55

Step 55: Remove, measure and mark

Remove the short baseboard pieces. Measure and mark 3” from both ends of each long baseboard piece, being careful not to move them from their position.

Step 56

Step 56: Measure and mark

Measure and mark 30” to the center of the long baseboard piece.

Step 57

Step 57: Drill in pilot holes with appropriate bit

Using the wood screw bit, drill a pilot hole through each mark down into the particle board (Be careful when drilling not to go through the particle board – use a tape flag if necessary.)

Step 58

Step 58: Drive wood screws into pilot holes

Drive wood screws into each of the pilot holes.

Step 59

Step 59: Repeat steps 55-58

Repeat steps 55-58 to attach the other long baseboard piece to the particle board. (This will be called the baseboard frame.)

Step 60

Step 60: Position baseboard to the back of table

With the table turned upright (wheels on the ground) position the short baseboard piece against the bottom of the leg frame towards the BACK of the table (the same side as the triangular braces).

Step 61

Step 61: Measure and mark

Measure and mark 2” from each end of the short baseboard piece.

Step 62

Step 62: Pilot holes

Pilot holes and drive wood screws through each mark.

Step 63

Step 63: Repeat steps 60-62

Repeat Steps 60-62 to attach the other short baseboard piece to the far side.

Step 64

Step 64: Fit the baseboard frame between the baseboard pieces

Fit the baseboard frame between the short baseboard pieces (you may need to push the legs out slightly to fit the frame in between.)

Step 65

Step 65: Mark the particle board

Mark the particle board 1 3/4” from the outside edge. (Repeat on the other side.)

Step 66

Step 66: Pilot holes through marks

Pilot holes through each mark (using the wood screw bit).

Step 67

Step 67: Drive wood screws into pilots

Drive wood screws into each of the pilot holes to secure the baseboard to the bottom of the table.

Step 68

Step 68: Position power strip on baseboard

Position the power strip on top of the baseboard centered underneath the table.

Step 69

Step 69: Mark power strip holes

Mark an X in each of the screw holes on both sides of the power strip.

Step 70

Step 70: Drill pilot holes through marks

Drill pilot holes through each of the marks (using the wood screw bit)

Step 71

Step 71: Drive wood screws into pilots

Drive wood screws into each of the pilot holes to attach the power strip to the baseboard.

Step 72

Step 72: Measure and mark

Underneath the table frame, along the crossbeam, measure and mark 21” from the side.

Step 73

Step 73: Mark x over hook holes

Hold a hook over the mark, and mark an X in each of the holes.

Step 74

Step 74: Remove hook and drill pilots

Remove the hook and drill a pilot hole through each mark.

Step 75

Step 75: Drill in screws

Replace the hook and drive the included screws into each of the pilot holes.

Step 76

Step 76: Repeat last steps

Repeat steps 72-75 to attach the second hook to the other side

Step 77

Step 77: Finished table

Push in chairs and enjoy your Rolling Maker Table!


Learn more

Related Posts

  • Pre-fabricated rolling whiteboards are expensive, but you can easily assemble one yourself for half the cost!  Requirements…

  • There are many different types of 3D printers and 3D printing processes. The most common…

  • Build a simple mobile tool cart to keep tools organized and accessible wherever you are in…